It’s an experience that is a bucket-list item for so many, and for good reason. The Ghan Expedition train journey is an iconic trip traveling through the heart of Australia, linking Darwin and Adelaide by rail over 4 days and 3 nights. Recently, I was lucky enough to have had the experience of joining the train in Darwin with my mum. As the journey unfolded, it became clear why The Ghan Expedition is not just a train ride but a profound exploration of Australia’s vast and diverse terrain.
Let’s begin at the start; our transfer picked us up from the DoubleTree by Hilton Esplanade bright and early (6:15AM, so not too bright by that point), to take us to the welcome event at the Darwin Convention Centre. You’re provided with a light breakfast, tea, coffee & if you’re game at this time of the day, your first champagne or mimosa of the trip! With a musician providing entertainment, it makes for a lovely ambience, and you’ll also catch sunrise over the Darwin Waterfront if you go outside and watch as Darwin slowly wakes up. A welcome to country is performed before coaches take you to Berrimah station where you’ll meet up with The Ghan, home for the next 3 nights.
Image: The Ghan train
When you get on board, you will receive your lanyard with your meal times – for breakfast, you’re given a time range and you’re welcome to enjoy breakfast at any time. Lunches & dinners are set times to ensure meals are staggered to cater for all passengers on board. A crew member will come past your cabin and welcome you onboard and confirm your Off Train Experiences. You’ll asked to put down two preferences in case your first preference isn’t available. Once the formalities are done, you’re free to explore your cabin, or make your way to the lounge car and watch the scenery go by as you begin the journey to Adelaide.
The great part of this trip is that how you spend your time onboard is entirely up to you! You might want to play cards in the lounge car, strike up conversation with your fellow travellers, enjoy the all-inclusive beverage service, spend time in your cabin reading a book or even taking a nap! Onboard, there are no TVs (aside from those that show the map to see where you are at any given time) and there is no WiFi – so it’s a great way to disconnect from technology, relax and enjoy your surroundings.
Onboard, you’ll find all kinds of travellers – couples, solo travellers, mother / daughter combos, brothers travelling with each other, even the odd family with teenage children, Australian travellers and international travellers – it all makes for quite the eclectic group of people with plenty of life stories to share between them.
Image: Nitmiluk Gorge
Brunch is served on board before we reach Katherine, our first stop of the trip. Here you have the choice of a selection of included Off Train Experiences. We chose the Nitmiluk Gorge Rock Art Cruise. Coaches pick you up train-side, and after a drive into Nitmiluk Gorge National Park, we began with a leisurely cruise down the First Gorge, where towering sandstone cliffs rise majestically above us. Our lovely guide, a proud, young Jawoyn woman, was eager to share her and her ancestors’ stories with us. The highlight of our expedition was a visit to an Indigenous rock art site nestled at the top of the First Gorge. Here, against the backdrop of dramatic cliffs, we marvelled at artworks that have withstood the test of time, dating back to the last Ice Age. These vivid paintings and etchings offer a poignant testament to the enduring presence of the Jawoyn culture.
Once back on board, you’ll have some time to refresh before dinner. Part of the charm of train travel is that it is very social. You may want to pop into the lounge car for a drink before dinner and meet your fellow travellers and catch up on your day. At dinner, you’re in for a treat, with a 3-course meal with decadent options to choose from. Meals are a social experience as you join your fellow travellers in tables of four. And while we’re talking about food, you won’t go hungry on this trip! Menus on and off board feature local produce and cater for dietary requirements. If after all this food, you’re still feeling hungry, the lounge car has fruit, biscuits, and snacks available.
While you’re at dinner, your cabin will be transformed from the day setup to the night set up, so when you arrive back to your cabin, you’ll be ready to catch Zs - they even leave you chocolate on your bed for turn down. For anyone who is a light sleeper, remember to pack an eye mask and ear plugs, but otherwise, let the rocking of the train pull you into a slumber.
Our cabin was a Gold Twin cabin which features bunk beds, with a ladder to access the top, and a rail to ensure you don’t fall out in the middle of the night! The beds are comfortable, and each bed has its own reading light and storage space. Your twin cabin features its own bathroom with amenities. And if you’ve forgotten your toothpaste, just ask one of the train staff and they’ll be happy to assist. If bunk beds sound daunting and you’d prefer twin or double bedding, you’ll need to book a Platinum cabin – however, this is popular and sells very quickly, so be sure to book early.
Image: Simpsons Gap
After your first night onboard, you’ll arrive in Alice Springs, ready for a day of exploration after breakfast. Today, we chose to go on the West Ventures trip, which visited Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye), a significant cultural icon in Central Australia standing 80m tall and enjoyed a guided walk through with a knowledgeable ranger. Following on from that, we visited Alice Springs Desert Park for lunch before visiting stunning Simpsons Gap.
This evening’s entertainment featured a band playing a variety of music and an exclusive dinner party at Alice Springs Telegraph Station – what a fun night! Food featured locally inspired tasting entrée plates – barramundi, crocodile & kangaroo, followed by a family style dinner – chicken, steak with vegetables & salad. There were desserts galore including s’mores by the fire. There was time for camel rides, a blacksmith demonstration, and a walk through the Telegraph Station. Established in 1871, it was pivotal in connecting Darwin and Adelaide via Australia’s Overland Telegraph Line. It revolutionised communication, reducing the time to send messages to London from months to just 5 hours, making it a significant historical site in the Northern Territory. Buses were available to take you back to the train as you were ready to call it a night, although plenty of people stayed to the very end, asking for encore after encore to continue dancing, not wanting to the evening to end.
Image: Alice Springs Telegraph Station exclusive dinner
Overnight we crossed over into South Australia, and day 3 began at Manguri, where the train stationed for our day trip into Coober Pedy. We chose the Explore Coober Pedy day tour, which started with a bus ride to The Breakaways lookout where tea, coffee, champagne and soft drinks were served. A spectacular viewing point and I can only imagine what it would look like as the sky changes colour from sunrise to sunset.
Did you know that anyone can become an opal miner (permits required)? So for that reason, when you’re driving around Coober Pedy, you’ll notice so many mounds of dirt with holes in the ground next to them, where people have tried their luck! It really is quite the sight.
Image: The Breakaways, Coober Pedy
Our next top was at the subterranean Serbian Orthodox Church, renowned for its ballroom-style design and stained-glass windows. From there, lunch was served underground at Quest Mine along with a chance to try your hand at opal mining with a hard hat, which certainly made for a unique experience. But don’t worry, if you didn’t have any luck, you’ll get the opportunity to visit an opal shop to buy a memento of your trip or a souvenir! After lunch, we visited Umoona Opal Mine and Museum, to learn more about the town's history and to walk through a 'dugout', built as the temperature in summer can get so hot, many residents live underground.
On your way back, capture an iconic photo of The Ghan locomotives at the Manguri siding before returning in the early evening. On arrival back to the train, you’ll be welcomed back with a beverage and some canapes alongside the train with a bonfire where you can relax and enjoy the spectacular desert sunset before your final dinner onboard.
Image: The Ghan in all its glory
After your final night and a last, lazy breakfast, you’ll have time to pack, relax and savour the last moments of your train journey before you arrive in Adelaide. Tip: pre-organise a transfer as the taxi line is long and can take some time to clear.
If you’re on the fence about whether or not to book, just get on board. It's all organised very smoothly, and every detail is thought of to ensure you can just sit back and enjoy. The variety of Off Train Experiences to choose from showcase each destination in South Australia and the Northern Territory beautifully – whether you’re after something more active, or something that doesn’t require too much activity, you’ll be able to make the most of travelling through the heart of Australia.
To start planning your Ghan escape, check out our favourite rail holidays.
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